This is one of my rotating Nosework topics — and it tends to meet a lot of resistance. That either tells me something… or just confirms that change is hard. We all feel comfortable doing things the way we've always done them. I'll admit, I'm not one to overhaul my training approach quickly — but change can be good! Trying new ideas can be transformative.

Photo credit: Paws the Moment Photography

Ultimately, it's all about clear communication.

When we reward a behavior, it increases the likelihood the dog will repeat that behavior. Since we can't reward instantly, the marker will signal to your dog that they met criteria and acts as a bridge that the reward is coming.

One way to add clarity is to teach Location Specific Markers (LSM) that tells the dog not only that their behavior meets criteria, but also communicates how the reward will be delivered through different marker cues. A single cue can carry multiple meanings for the dog, triggering both the end of the behavior and the start of the reward process. Dogs appreciate knowing how they will be rewarded and with what type of reward. Predictable reward delivery provides clear information to the dog, removing the guesswork on how they will get rewarded.

When we reward at source, most of us use a marker that tells the dog they're correct. We might not intend for that marker to mean "stay put," but because of timing, maybe some food pairing, and the history of getting rewarded right at source, many dogs naturally wait by the hide for their reward. That's the power of reward placement! Common markers are "Alert," "Yes," or some form of praise. This is often referred to as a "room service" marker cue - because the reward is brought directly to the dog. And when we consistently deliver the reward right where they are, they quickly learn exactly what that cue means.

One of my favorite markers is a "take out" cue. It's essentially a terminal marker that tells the dog they're correct and can stop the behavior they're performing. At the same time, it also communicates that they can come to me for their reward. I like this cue because it builds motivation in my dog by allowing them to move. They offer this snappy response back to me and I see pure joy! I have two "take out" cues, one for a food reward ("break") and one for a toy ("strike").

Isn't "Break" a release cue?

Often, people get caught up in my use of the word "break" because it's traditionally seen as a release cue. Release cues have had their moment in the spotlight - after all, they're just behavior cues like "come," "jump," or "take it."

So, do we really need a separate release cue? Maybe not. For me, "break" functions as a marker cue that signals the dog has found the target odor and can come to me for their reward. I repurposed it from a general release cue because I realized I didn't actually need it for the purpose I initially intended. Now, "break" is always rewarded with food when my dog returns to me. It's just a word - you can choose any word you prefer for this cue.

Value of a Take Out reward cue.

Once a dog has an established behavior at source, then using a take out cue is perfectly fine. You don't have to always use one, but there are times they can be useful, such as:

• To add motivating movement.
• On the last hide of a known # hide search.
• For a dog with a well established trained indication (i.e., nose freeze).
• If your dog is off-leash and far enough ahead that you can't reach them quickly.
• If your dog prefers a toy reward, and you want to release them using a toy-specific marker.
• In tight spaces or certain training setups - like deep accessible hides or mazes - where getting into reward is difficult or impossible.
• In game classes or setups where the handler must stay in a "box" or behind a line and can't go in to reward.

What people often forget is that releasing your dog from a pressure situation is highly reinforcing - you're essentially doubling their reward by letting them move away from the pressure to get their treat. On top of that, you're tripling their reinforcement for coming back to you, since most dogs want to be near us ... or maybe they just like being close to the treats!

Movement also builds confidence and can be especially beneficial for our Nosework dogs. In new or unfamiliar environments - where other people and various distractions might make your dog feel uncertain or pressured - remaining still can actually increase their stress. If you sense your dog is worried, movement in general helps release tension and allows them to better process and adapt to their surroundings.

But I want my dog to have better stay-at-source skills ...

This is a common concern, and it's valid - we definitely want to build stronger stay-at-source skills, especially if you're having trouble reading when your dog is actually at source. Using markers intentionally helps clarify expectations for the dog. Many dogs struggle to stay at source simply because they haven't been taught with a marker system that reinforces holding position. A well-timed marker helps solidify their understanding of when and where they'll be rewarded.

Building stronger cue discrimination.

Adding discrimination between different cues will further enhance their cognitive processing and focus. I believe that's the missing link — building cue discrimination isn't usually a part of most Nosework curriculums. Teaching your dog to discriminate between cues — specifically your "room service" and "take out" cues - can actually be fun and strengthen their focus.

Is this required for Nosework? Absolutely not. What can be confusing for dogs is when cues like "Alert" or "Yes" mean both "stay at source" or "come back to me" or something in between. Because of the history of reward placement at source, dogs often default to staying put. However, there are times when dogs will quickly pull off the hide - if they're worried, feeling pressure in a tight space, or if the handler is far away. In those situations, we can anticipate their response and use a "take out" marker cue instead. This helps preserve the clarity of the "stay at source" marker cue, since they are going to pull away from the hide anyways!

How do I train this?

Below are some fun training drills and setups to teach these new cues.

• Suggestions for Room Service cues are: Yes, Yip, Good, Mark, Nice, Freeze — can be any word you will use consistently, and different from your Take Out cue.
• Suggestions for Take Out cues are: Yes, Break, Bam, Pop, Cookie — can be any word you will use consistently and different from your Room Service cue.

The mechanics for both of the cues is: Cue -> P A U S E -> Deliver reward in the placement denoted by the cue. The key is that you are not saying the cue and delivering the reward at the same time. Your dog will not learn the verbal cue and will continue to watch you for information.

Here are the 5 steps:

1. Away from odor, teach your dog a Room Service cue by putting them in a stay position of your choice (stand, sit or a down). Cue -> P A U S E -> Deliver the treat while your dog remains in the stay position. Add distance to solidify the cue meaning.
2. Away from odor, teach your dog a Take Out cue using a simple method of sending your dog away from you for a treat toss, then cue them with your new cue before they turn around, causing them to come back to you. Alternately, or in addition to, you can teach it similarly to a release cue: put your dog in a stay, move away, give the new cue, PAUSE, and then offer your hand for them to come get the treat. Cue -> PAUSE -> Deliver the treat from your hand when your dog gets to you.
3. Discriminate between the two cues to test their understanding.
4. Add the cues to Nosework training.
5. Maintain the cues with routine training.

Example of Steps 1 and 2 - Teaching the cues away from odor:

Example of Step 3 - Discriminating cues away from odor:

Example of Step 4 - Adding the cues to Nosework Training:

Additionally, for known hide placements in training, I don't use "Alert" and instead use my specific marker cue. For blind hide placements, I say "Alert" and then the specific reward cue. You can also proof "Alert" to mean nothing, but that's for another topic!

In summary, teaching your dog new skills and cues strengthens their ability to think critically. As you build their cognitive abilities, you're also developing a clearer dialogue, which in turn boosts their confidence and overall performance.