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FE470: Training Levels -- Level 4

  • Overview
  • Syllabus
  • Prerequisites & Supplies
  • Sample Lecture
  • Testimonials & Reviews
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FE470: Training Levels -- Level 4

Course Details

The Training Levels are a structured course designed to teach your dog the basic skills that every dog needs for success as a pet, sport, working dog, or all three. These classes teach the trainer how to teach and how to prepare the dog to perform willingly under increasingly challenging circumstances. 

Sue Ailsby's Training Levels are being used by pet trainers, sports instructors, and working dog schools all over the world. Now you can let Sue guide you through them!

The Training Levels are designed to create a training base for ALL dogs. There are four Levels with behaviors designed to teach both dog AND trainer. Every lesson supports later lessons, with early behaviors taught, diversified, and proofed to provide a solid foundation for all later lessons, be they pet, sport, or working behaviors.

The focus of these courses is not only the actual behaviors taught; the core is teaching YOU how to ensure that your dog can still perform under distracting conditions and when the "picture" looks different.  We'll take a variety of basic behaviors (which we'll teach for those who need them and expand for those who have them) and teach you how to get them under a wide range of circumstances.  In a nutshell, proofing and generalization!

These classes are a wonderful choice for almost anyone who wants to develop their dog to her fullest potential; regardless of future career path!

As we begin the fourth and last Level, we are seeing the difference in willingness and competence in class dogs, and a similar, if not even better, increase in training knowledge, enthusiasm, and competence in their trainers.


Note:  This is class four in a four part series.  Parts one and two are taught on the regular FDSA schedule with instructor Heather Lawson stepping in for Sue Ailsby (now retired).  Students are welcome to continue working these materials with feedback from Heather using the FDSA one-to-one online private lessons.   Interested students should email Heather at dogwise@telus.net for more information.


Sue AilsbyInstructor: Sue Ailsby

Susan Finlay Ailsby (she/her) has retired from active teaching for FDSA.  She is a retired obedience and conformation judge.  She has been "in dogs" for 54 years, having owned and trained Chihuahuas, miniature pinschers, miniature longhaired dachshunds, Australian cattle dogs, miniature schnauzers, giant schnauzers, and Portuguese...(Click here for full bio and to view Sue's self-study courses)

Syllabus

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 ZEN - coffee table Zen with the handler out of the room.

 

 zen.jpg

 

COME – over distances and away from people petting and feeding.   

 

karen1.jpg  karen2.jpg  karen3.jpg

 

SIT - position changes sit to down to stand and back again at a distance.

 

TARGETS - paws up on horizontal surfaces and associated tricks 

 

 paws.jpg

 

RETRIEVE - the final step after a correct hold, an eager grab, and a willing release - lifting the article off the ground and delivering it. Also the infamous hot dog retrieve! 

 

 hotdog.jpg

 

LOOSE LEASH - tidying up real world applications.  

 

 walk.jpg  trike.jpg

 

FOCUS - the "Look and Watch" game. Directed jumping and retrieving.

 

GO TO MAT - using the doorbell as a Go To Mat cue.

 

CRATE - longer durations and out of sight stays.

 

DISTANCE - committing to going around larger objects and humans at greater distances. 

 

 car.jpg

 

 RELAX - anytime, anywhere, in sight of dogs and children playing, feral cats and geese. 

 

 relax.jpg

 

HANDLING - stranger examinations on tables with relaxation, and elimination on cue. 

 

 examine.jpg

 

COMMUNICATION - left and right direction cues, and ringing a bell to go outside.

Prerequisites & Supplies

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PREREQUISITES

Note:  This is class four in a four part series.  Parts one and two are taught on the regular FDSA schedule with instructor Heather Lawson stepping in for Sue Ailsby (now retired).  Students are welcome to continue working these materials with feedback from Heather using the FDSA one-to-one online private lessons.   Interested students should email Heather at dogwise@telus.net for more information. 

EQUIPMENT

 

A hungry, willing dog, clicker, delicious treats.

A 6-foot leash.

A buckle collar or martingale, limited-slip, or similar type of collar.

Household items - coffee table, chairs, a grooming table, go-outside bells, 

Various people, dogs, and other distractions varying in difficulty from easy to almost impossible for your own dog.

Dumbbell and other retrievables.

A mat big enough for the dog to lie on.

A crate.

Miscellaneous outdoor poles - signposts, power poles, trees, etc.

Sample Lecture

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RETRIEVE STEP 2 - Dog takes and holds a raw wiener, then hands it back intact.

 

This is THE trick. The trick that blows everybody else's trick out of the water. It's AMAZING enough when my dog picks up a baggie full of treats and hands it to me, but when she does this, it just ends the conversation right there with a bang. Mic drop.

 

My suggestion is that you don't do this until you've had a strong, correct retrieve for about six months, but I wanted to leave it here for you when that time arrives.

 

You've done a billion holds - offer the object to the dog, she takes it in her mouth and holds it with you for several seconds, then releases it. You done half a billion let-goes - offer the object to the dog, she takes it and holds it with you, you let go and let her hold it alone, then you hold it together again, then she releases it to you.

 

That's all there is to the holding-a-wiener trick, except of course for the and-don't-eat-it part.

 

Start with a wiener with a plastic skin on it, frozen solid. Wash it off before you freeze it, and dry it thoroughly, so there's as little wiener juice on the outside of the wrapper as possible.

 

Before I get the wiener, I have the dog do the hold with my index finger, making sure she WILL take it, making sure she's holding it in the right place behind her canines but not back onto her molars. 

hot1.jpg

Then I put the wiener and my index finger together and ask her to take them together. I'm completely awake and ready to slide the wiener-and-finger out of her mouth sideways if I feel any kind of clamping (slide before you have to scream)(in reality, most dogs will be overly-cautious with your finger). More likely, I'm ready to slide them out of her mouth if I feel her trying to throw them back onto her molars where she can chew them.

 hot2.jpg  hot3.jpg

See how Syn is holding finger-and-wiener with only one side of her mouth? I don't care. She seems to think she's less likely to succumb to temptation if she doesn't totally commit.

 

This part takes a while. She wants to get rid of your finger so she can eat the wiener. She wants to clamp down so she can suck the juice out of the wiener without chewing it. She isn't comfortable with your finger in her mouth and wishes you would take it out so she doesn't have to worry about biting you (she's more worried than you should be).

 

Sometimes she figures out a compromise - instead of taking them, she puts her mouth really close to them and licks. And licks. And licks.

 

In that case, I find giving a Zen cue (Leave It) and THEN presenting it with the take it cue (Get It) helps sort the matter out in her mind. I know it sounds odd - don't take this, take it - but it usually does clear the matter up.

 

By the way, if you have several wieners rinsed, dried, and frozen, you don't have to keep waiting until the next day when your practise wiener has frozen nice and hard again.

 

When she can comfortably hold wiener AND finger, you can try her with just the frozen, still-wrapped wiener (remain ready to pull it out - you don't want her to swallow the wrapper!). I go with five or six wiener-and-finger, then one just-wiener. 

 

 hot4.jpg

As always with a retrieve item, you truly don't give her control over the object until you're very, very, very sure that she's got herself under control while you're holding it together. I mean, while you and she are both holding the wiener!  

 hot6.jpg  hot5.jpg

 Big parties for doing this, by the way! The first few times I ripped the wiener apart and let her chase the pieces all over the floor.

 

From there, you start taking the plastic skin off the wiener, and let it thaw as you're working on it (I start with a frozen one and let it thaw as we work rather than just out-of-the-blue presenting her with a warm one, at least for the first thousand reps or so!).

 

COMEAFTERS

 

Move on to an entire retrieve. "Just" follow the steps you used when teaching your dog to retrieve in the first place, being very sure that you're using a hard-frozen wiener for each increase in behaviour. 

 

Teach your dog to retrieve your bait bag. Teach her to ignore your bait bag in the middle of the floor and get the dumbbell, or your shoe. 

 

Bear in mind, though, that the act of HOLDING a raw wiener is enough to shut down the entire room. It really isn't necessary to teach a retrieve as well.

Testimonials & Reviews

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A SAMPLING OF WHAT PRIOR STUDENTS HAVE SAID ABOUT THIS COURSE ...

I know I have a particularly clever and impossible dog ....Sue is able to keep us focused and moving in a forward direction even when I doubt it. Sue's classes have all been simply stupendous. Any Sue class is worth whatever it may take to enroll and in which to participate. Sherry H.          


If there is one series of classes I would recommend for anyone with a dog it would be the Training Levels. Not only did my dog's general behavior improve but I learned so much about training in general. Sue really is amazing. The skills included can be extended to so many areas (water trials, obedience, agility and carting were all touched on) which makes a silver spot very valuable. Not only do you get a class with Sue but you get to join a communty of those who have already discovered how amazing she is and worked with her for years. This makes an incredibly active, supportive and fun Facebook group to support the class. My only regret is that I didn't know about the training levels before I got my dog. Can't wait to start them all again with the next puppy.           


The training levels program in general is fantastic. I started the levels with my puppy when he was 8 months and now he's a little over a year. The foundations that the levels have given us has been exceptional. The other students in the class ranged from first-time trainers like me to very experienced service dog trainers and I truly do think the levels are helpful for the whole spectrum. She is very generous with her time and will give you feedback on wherever you are.         


Sue Ailsby's Training Levels are the very best sequential training program I've ever found. Finish them and nothing more is needed. From there, all dog sports are in easy reach because your dog has become savvy and you have become a fantastic teacher yourself. Donna E           


Sue - as always, you're the very best. Your ability to see our problems and frustrations and find ways to navigate around them is amazing. Your good humor is joyful and a reminder to us all to keep it fun! Thank you, thank you! I need a new Sue class...I'm going into withdrawal!         


Dear Sue, I threw down the challenge to you to motivate me not to give up, and were you ever successful! I'm not nearly done with level 4, or 3, or 2, but I will be. All because of you and your lovely sense of humor and your kindness and especially your clicks to me! Thank you so much. Donna Elkin          


Sue is fantastic. I always looked forward to checking the forums and was motivated to train and video so I could get more feedback from her. Even though I was embarrassed to post some videos, her critiques were always helpful and not judgmental.


 

Registration

This is a self-study class.  The lectures will appear directly in your library, under the "Self Study classes" heading.  Self Study classes do not have class homework forums.  You will not have any access to the course instructor for questions or feedback.  Please note there are no refunds on self-study classes so review all the information provided carefully before purchasing.

You will have access to these materials in your library for one year from the date of enrollment.   You can keep your library pass current by enrolling in at least one course or workshop a year.  Alternatively, you can purchase a library pass for $25 per year for as long as you wish to have access to prior class materials. 

Note:  This is class three in a four part series.  Parts one and two are taught on the regular FDSA schedule with instructor Heather Lawson stepping in for Sue Ailsby (now retired).  Students are welcome to continue working these materials with feedback from Heather using the FDSA one-to-one online private lessons.   Interested students should email Heather at dogwise@telus.net for more information. 

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