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FF170: Progressing Your Training: Reducing Reinforcement Without Reducing Enthusiasm

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FF170: Progressing Your Training: Reducing Reinforcement Without Reducing Enthusiasm

Course Details

Treats and toys are amazing for creating and maintaining behaviors / tricks. Once a new behavior is trained though, we typically want to progress to the point where our dog reliably responds to our cue, even when the treats and toys aren’t immediately available.

It’s not that we want to stop providing treats and toys, it’s just that we want our dog to rapidly and accurately respond to our cues without first checking to make sure we have treats/toys available, and we also want to reach the point where our dog is able to work in a focused and enthusiastic way for longer periods of time without constant access to rewards.

Progressing a behavior / trick / exercise from the learning phase to the next level is a smooth process for some teams, however there are a few common areas where teams can get stuck, these include:

  • Moving from “bribing” to reinforcing (i.e. having the trick / behavior / exercise occur in response to our cue, even when the treats and toys are not visible or are placed at a distance away from us and/or our dog).
  • Moving from luring to the point where the behavior / trick occurs in response to a verbal cue (or small physical signal) rather than still needing giant luring hand signals to generate the behavior.
  • Transitioning a shaped behavior into a polished, verbally cued, trick (i.e. having the end-goal behavior reliably occur in response to a verbal cue only, but also not occurring before we give the cue).
  • Fading out props (i.e. having the trick / behavior occur reliably and precisely in the absence of props).
  • Shifting to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement in an effective way (i.e. reaching a point where the trick remains enthusiastic, accurate, precise, and reliable even when we are not providing a reward after every performance of the trick / behavior / exercise).
  • Adding distance (i.e. having a trained behavior / trick occur reliably and accurately at a distance from the handler, not only when immediately near the handler).

 

All of the above skills are covered in this class; we will also include strategies for:

  • Maintaining engagement, focus, and enthusiasm during a sequence of several behaviors when the treats / toys are absent.
  • Maintaining motivation between individual exercises (i.e. being able to end an exercise / trick and then set up for the next exercise / trick in a focused way, without our dog needing access to treats/toys.)
  • Training specific “reward events” - to improve clarity, reduce confusion / frustration, and add more fun to our training sessions.
  • Working with remotely placed rewards (i.e. having our dog leave treats/toys in an enthusiastic and unconflicted way and return with us when cued to access the rewards).
  • Building our dog’s mental stamina, so they can work in an enthusiastic and focused way for longer periods between breaks and before access to rewards.
  • Helping our dog build the skills needed to continue to “work” in a focused way even with treats/toys nearby and/or on the ground (i.e. building the skills needed to ignore nearby treats / toys / distractions).

 

Each week of this class we will focus on a group of skills from the above lists.

 

Several written topics will be released each week; each will introduce theory concepts that are related to that week’s work. Examples of the theory topics include:

  • Cue salience, overshadowing, and cue transfer.
  • Stimulus control, cue discrimination, and generalization.
  • Habit formation.
  • Reinforcement schedules.
  • Superstitious behaviors.
  • Building mental stamina.
  • Reducing reinforcement.
  • The difference between rewards and reinforcement.

 

Approximately 2 – 3 practical exercises will also be released each week; these too will be based on that week’s overall theme / skillset.

 

Working spots (gold / silver):

Working spots in this class are equally suited to dog sports competitors as well as those who train for enjoyment only, with no plans of competing at all.

Working spots will equally suit beginner trainers looking for a starting point to train new tricks / behaviors, as well as experienced trainers looking to refine their existing skills.

Each team will have the opportunity to work on their own choice of behaviors (i.e. any tricks / exercises they are currently working on or would like to work on).

Working spots will ideally be suited to teams who are feeling a little stuck with some of their current tricks / behaviors / exercises. For example:

  • Your dog’s tricks / behaviors are starting to look pretty good but still require a lot of luring or “extended signals”; or
  • Your dog’s tricks / behaviors are reliably occurring from a verbal cue, but whenever the treats/toys aren’t visible your dog appears confused or uninterested; or
  • As soon as the rewards are placed in a remote location your dog isn’t able to ignore or leave the treats / toys to remain focused on the “work”; or
  • You’ve only just started training your dog, he / she seems enthusiastic, but you’re really not sure how to establish any reliable cued tricks / behaviors.

 

The content of this class is applicable to any dog sport / activity where the use of treats/toys needs to ultimately be reduced / delayed (e.g. rally, agility, obedience, tricks, musical freestyle, heelwork to music, etc.).

 

The information in this class would also be useful for professional trainers / instructors, whether their clients are pet people or dog sports teams. Several of the theory topics explain the science behind the choices we make when generating a new behavior, or when undertaking the process of reducing reinforcement (e.g. the role of habit formation, the timing for shifting from a continuous schedule to an intermittent schedule, the impact of each dog’s innate traits, etc.), and the practical exercises are simple, systematic, effective, and well-suited to all types of dogs.

 

Auditing (bronze) students:

We have a very experienced and well-credentialed Teaching Assistant (TA) in this class, so all bronze and silver students will be able to access personalized feedback on their videos in the Facebook study group.

Syllabus

View Full Syllabus

This is a brand-new class; the syllabus is currently being created. Week 1 topics are listed below together with outlines for weeks 2 - 6. 

Week 1

  • Learning via positive reinforcement.
  • Stimulus control, cue discrimination, and generalization
  • Cue salience, overshadowing, cue transfer, and extinction.
  • Superstitious behaviors.
  • Bribing versus reinforcing.
  • Luring.
  • Steps for progressing from luring to cueing.
  • Shaping.
  • Setting criteria.
  • Summary for creating a new behavior / trick.

Plus 2-3 practical exercises.

 

Week 2 

  • The phases of learning.
  • Reinforcement schedules.
  • Reducing reinforcement.
  • Selecting an appropriate rate of reinforcement (ROR).
  • Effective use of props.
  • Fading props.

Plus 2-3 practical exercises. 

 

Week 3 - Creating and maintaining motivation. Training and using different reward events. 

Including 2-3 practical exercises.

 

Week 4 - Using remotely placed rewards. Delayed rewards. Building mental stamina / increasing the time to CTP. Adding distance to tricks / behaviors.

Including 2-3 practical exercises.

 

Week 5 - Eliminating anticipation of cues. Training “end of exercise” cues that do not include treats / toys. Preparing for competing without treats / toys. 

Including 2-3 practical exercises.

 

Week 6 - Working around treats / toys / interesting smells / dropped food (i.e. reliably performing behaviors on cue and in a focused way even when there are rewards nearby and/or on the ground.)

Including 2-3 practical exercises.

Prerequisites and Equipment

There are no prerequisites or specific equipment required for this class.

Sample Lecture

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1.5. - Superstitious behaviors

Superstitious behaviors are behaviors that become embedded into “goal behaviors” (i.e. although we were not intentionally reinforcing those behaviors, they were occurring simultaneously with the behavior/s we were reinforcing, and hence they too became reinforced).

Below are a couple of examples:

  • We are training (and hence intentionally reinforcing) the behavior of “spinning” on cue, but during the learning phase of training the spin, our dog also barked on every occasion whilst spinning. As a result, our dog may believe that “barking whilst spinning” is the goal behavior, rather than just “spinning”. The outcome being that in the future, every time we cue the “spin” behavior, our dog will simultaneously spin and bark. In this example, the behavior of “barking” is a superstitious behavior because our dog believes it is an aspect of the goal behavior, even though the true goal behavior we were attempting to train was just the spin.
  • We are training our dog to run to a platform, and our only criteria is that our dog places four feet on the platform. During the training phase though, our dog sits on the platform as soon as they arrive at the platform. Once we repeatedly mark/reinforce the behavior of “running to the platform and sitting”, our dog will believe that sitting on the platform is the “correct” behavior. This is perfectly fine, if the ”sit” is irrelevant to us, but if we had originally planned to teach our dog to go to the platform and wait in a stand position, it will be challenging to re-train the behavior to occur without the superstitious “sit” behavior occurring upon arrival at the platform.

Superstitious behaviors are simply labelled as “superstitious” because we didn’t actively target those specific behaviors in the training process (i.e. they were not part of our criteria for the end goal behavior). Importantly though, our dog believes that the additional (superstitious) behaviors form part of the total behavior that leads to reinforcement, because we have repeatedly reinforced the performance of those additional (superstitious) behaviors when we marked / reinforced the goal behavior.

 

Preventing “superstitious behaviors”.

During the process of training a new trick / behavior, we may notice additional (superstitious) behavior/s occurring, but we may actively decide to ignore those “additional behaviors” because they do not affect the functionality of the goal behavior (e.g. our dog performs a small head toss as they commence a “bark on cue” and we decide that the head toss is of no relevance to us, so we don’t attempt to prevent the head toss becoming part of the overall end behavior.)

However, more commonly, unwanted additional (superstitious) behaviors become embedded in the cued behavior because we are so heavily focused on observing and marking the goal behavior, that we don’t even realize additional behavior/s are becoming embedded into that overall behavior.

When superstitious behaviors are irrelevant (i.e. we don’t care about the extra behavior; it doesn’t influence the functionality of the goal behavior or impact the scoring of the trick / behavior in the competition ring), we can simply ignore them in the training process. Superstitious behaviors can even add uniqueness to a trick, because each dog will add their own idiosyncrasies in the way they perform that trick / behavior (e.g. an extra head flick, or the way they move a paw in a paw lift trick, etc.), and then these quirks become embedded into that specific behavior / trick.

Sometimes however, superstitious behaviors are highly relevant, in that they impact the functionality of the goal behavior, or they are “undesirable” (e.g. if a dog routinely barks whilst waiting to be released from a mat, the dog may eventually believe that barking is part of the overall behavior that leads to reinforcement (i.e. leads to being released from the mat) and barking in this context may be an undesirable additional behavior).

To avoid unwanted superstitious behaviors being embedded into a goal behavior, it is important to notice ALL the behaviors our dog is performing when we are training a new behavior / exercise / trick and ensure that any unwanted components aren’t repeatedly occurring (and hence repeatedly being reinforced).

If we do notice a specific, unwanted behavior occurring repeatedly during the initial training phase of a new behavior / trick, we need to immediately change the set-up or change the timing of our marking, so the goal behavior can be performed (and reinforced) WITHOUT the unwanted component. For example:

  • If our end goal is for our dog to go to a platform and stand, but we notice our dog has sat on several reps as soon as they arrived at the platform, we will need to adjust the timing of our marking (i.e. mark as soon as our dog’s feet hit the platform) for many successive reps, so as to allow our dog to recognize that the “sit” is not required in order to access rewards. 
  • If our end goal is for our dog to spin without barking, but we notice on several reps that our dog is barking whilst spinning, we will need to adjust our dog’s arousal level, and/or reduce the frustration / excitement they are experiencing, such that they can perform the goal behavior (i.e. “spinning”) without the unwanted behavior (i.e. “barking”), and then we can reinforce just the spin (without the barking).

 

Eliminating established superstitious behaviors.

Eliminating superstitious behaviors from an established behavior can be challenging.

In some instances, it may be possible to reinforce the performance of the goal behavior WITHOUT the unwanted pieces (e.g. by manipulating the set-up, so that we can reinforce the goal behavior quickly BEFORE the unwanted superstitious behavior is performed).

However, we may need to go back and re-train the initial behavior again (but without the inclusion of the unwanted superstitious behavior).

 

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