TR101: Foundation Tracking 1

Teaching a Mark- Look Ahead

Goal of the Exercise

Marking in this context (as opposed to "marking" as the reward cue we use to bridge the time between the dog's behavior and getting their reward) is the act of a dog looking forward out towards another object.  The dog can watch a thrown retrieve item and mark the location of the landing (especially useful if thrown into long grass!) or the dog can be given a mark by the handler which tells the dog when and where to look.  This second part will be the focus of this lecture as it is not a natural behavior for the dog.  Dogs have to be trained to follow a point and while they readily pick up on it (compared to wolves!) their first instinct is still to stare at your hand versus following the invisible line you are pointing out to the object. 

Teaching a mark is a useful skill for directing your dog to retrieve something they didn't see thrown and for directing your dog to a specific item/cone when there are multiple choices for the dog to pick from.  It can also be used to point out the next task your dog is to do such as looking ahead to mark their "go out" location in Utility, or the first obstacle in agility. 

Here is an eventual goal behavior of Vito working in Utility.  I mark him to look forward to his go out location so he knows what to expect, and then stand up straight waiting for the judge to start the exercise and tell me to send my dog.  I want my dog to continue to look where they should be going next.

 

 

And here is final picture for the TEAM2 test: dog looks at you when you return (a cue is allowed, but I would suggest that you train the dog's default to be looking at you unless told otherwise), pause, cue the look forward and remove your hand, pause, then release forward.

 

 

Step 1: Teaching the Look Ahead 

Since most dogs will readily stare at cookies or their favorite toy, we will begin by using their reward as a lure.  For this exercise, I place my chosen reward in a bowl or on a target lid to make it clear to my dog that they might be getting released to it.  Since I don't allow my dogs to be released to distractions on the ground, the bowl or target quickly becomes a cue to my dog that they will be able to get the item at some point.  This bowl/target is often referred to as a Zen Bowl as the dog learns to develop impulse control before being released to it.  If your dog does not already have a solid stay or auto leave it while you place a distraction on the floor, you will still be able to start this particular marking exercise by simply holding your dog by the collar/harness for the early lessons. 

Let the dog see you put their reward on the ground in front of them, anywhere from 1 ft to 5ft at the very most.  Then encourage them to look forward it! When you see your dog looking ahead, use your release cue or another cue that means the dog can have the reward in the bowl.  Gradually increase the time your dog has to look ahead from 1/2sec to 3 full seconds.

For some dogs this look will be easy. For others you've done such a good job of teaching them to look at you, not the food, that it might be harder!!!  We may need to take the dog out of heel position and switch tactics. Check out the problem solving section a little below if you're stuck.

 

With Loot I have him on a platform to help him wait, return to him and gently touch his chest and assume a track start to try and be clear I'm not looking for focus. As soon as he looks at the dish I release him with "cookies!" which is my marker cue to tell him he can have the treats in the dish!  He anticipates the second rep and I let him go, but make sure he's in a sit for the next rep.

 

 

Here with Zumi I gently grab her collar to help her wait, and I add a "ready" cue to get her to look ahead as she knows that from the restraint games I've done. Note in this old video I mark with "yes" or the clicker. Now I would use a different marker/release cue that made it clear I wasn't rewarding from hand but was allowing the dog to get the food.  I currently use the marker cue "cookies" to release to a reward on the ground.

 

 

 

Problem Solving:

If your dog struggles with this first step, switch to tossing the reward in front of them versus placing it.  As your dog watches the throw you can release them before they have the opportunity to look back at you! You may also want to be out of heel position for this exercise as your dog likely has a strong foundation of keeping eye contact in heel! Move to the right side of your dog, a foot out in front of your dog, or even try having your dog between your legs!

Here with Grace I place a cookie in the dish just in case she looks before I toss, and then I toss one in.  Right before I toss I give her my mark signal so that will come to predict that the toss is going to happen. I release her with "cookies!" when she is looking at the motion of my toss!  She's a bit hesitant to release on the cue here even though she has a lot of practice already in knowing that "cookies!" means run to the dish!  

 

 

And here Ginny is working on this. I also try to have a treat already in the bucket in case she looks early. I am choosing to add a verbal cue to look here that predicts that I will toss a treat into the dish. I'll toss a second one if I need to!! I'm holding her collar to prevent her from going early. You can see she isn't quite getting it yet!

 

 

Here Ira has also struggled with looking at the dish.  Mom slides it forward so the dog is looking at the MOTION of the dish. On the first one she isn't quite sure yet, but the next two she nails the focus forward!  Mom is just starting to delay the release to the dish until after the dish has stopped moving!  She's also adding in a chest hold here as a reminder of oppositional reflex/restrain games. This could actually stick as the dog's eventual cue to look ahead.

 

 

Still struggling?  Look at changing your position so you're not in heel!!  Here with Wren I start her between my legs!

 

 

Step 2: Adding in the Hand Signal and/or Verbal

Most trainers will use a hand signal to tell their dog when/where to look ahead.  Since your dog will be starting from heel position, the most common signal is lowering your left hand to your dog's head level.  You may need to bend your knees with a small dog!  Hold your signal still either directly above their head or in the space between your dog's head and your leg.  Remember this hand signal is about giving a direction for your dog to look. It will not give your dog permission to actually run out!  Hold your signal still and wait for your dog to stop staring at your hand and actually look ahead at the reward like you have been working on.  Release your dog verbally and without moving your hand forward. 

Here is Nala who also has a very strong foundation of giving eye contact with the Zen Bowl!  I discover with her that she remains looking at the bowl while I'm setting food in it. It's the start of my standing up that makes it hard.  So I quickly send her a few times with my hand lingering at the bowl.  When I realize that this can start a hand signal I try switching to my other hand (the one closest to her).  I release with the marker cue "cookies."

 

 

 

This is Candy's first time seeing me add a hand signal.  You can see in the first rep she is already expectedly staring at the bowl, but as soon as I add my hand she mobs it thinking I have a cookie in it.  I try to keep my hand still and wait for her to look at the bowl again.  My hand is way too low here and makes it harder for her to look away from my hand.  This is a pretty old video without a clear marker cue to release.

 

 

 

And here with Mayhem I'm going a slightly different route of training a verbal "look" cue first. I had already taught her "collar grab = look ahead" from restraint games (see an example in the send to a target lecture under building motivation).  Since she struggled with being confused by my lowered hand, I decided to go the route of new cue ("look") followed by old cue (collar grab).  Well that was my plan. You will see the first several reps my timing was all over the map in that sequence!  But I get better as I go :)  Ideally I want that verbal "look" before I grab her collar and do a track start!

 

 

With Loot I'm changing from a chest hold to an arm signal. I also reach across with my right arm to grab his collar as I don't quite trust him to stay and this removes that conflict!

 

 

Note that I mark the dog for looking forward and always reward them by letting them go to what they were looking at.  While the technique of marking the look and feeding the dog from your hand can be successful, it is not one I recommend at this stage.  Often a dog could inadvertently learn to face their nose forward but they are still thinking about what the handler has versus actually applying their full focus forward.  The technique of rewarding from your hand would be best for a dog who already has very strong focus forward and needs to learn to relax a bit before being sent.

 

Duration!!

Build until you have 3-5 seconds of your dog looking forward to where you are directing with your hand and a minimum of six feet.

 

Here Wren is working on a tiny bit of duration before the release!  I occasionally have to re-mark her before sending. And note that I'm also working on Step 3 below (focus first). 

 

 

Step 3: Focus First 

Now that your dog is eagerly looking forward and isn't confused by the presence of your hand, we will start to teach him that looking forward is only to be done when given the cue.  Contrasting an "auto watch me" (this will be the dog's default behavior) with "look ahead" (only on cue now!) may be initially confusing but will start to cement the concept that your hand going down actually means something!

Here is Puppy Zumi working on this concept.  I review the mark and then start to add in rapid reinforcement for looking at me before marking.  This is where a marker cue like "yes" or a click that tells the dog food is coming from your hand is important! For Zumi the low value food on the target in this challenge wasn't difficult.  You can see a little bit of difficulty with going back to marking and with moving off as soon as my hand goes down. In this older video, my release cue also isn't super clear! Now I would release her with "cookies!"

 

 

 

And here Loot is working on this skill. I feed him several treats quickly before touching his chest and assuming his track start. I *skipped* to this step a little earlier with him then I do with some dogs as I thought it would make more sense with him to have a clear difference of when he should look at me and when he shouldn't.  He already had a lot more experience with a Zen Bowl and looking up at me before starting this marking exercise and I could tell he was getting unsure on what the rules were.  The look ahead is not solid yet, and still on a chest touch versus a hand signal. 

 

 

Problem Solving: Working on Focus around the Dish 

If you are struggling to get your dog to actually look at you, review our automatic leave it homework first from TEAM1. You may need to back up to holding the dish in your hand and getting eye contact!

Once the dog is looking at you and not the dish, give your dish marker cue and lower the dish for them to eat.  Work up to doing a quick discrimination exercise of "yes" = cookies from your hand, and "dish" = grab a treat from the dish. Work this with the bowl in your hand to prevent errors before putting the dish on the ground.

Here Loot works on controlling himself around the Zen Bowl. I start with pure eye contact= release to the dish and I set it down for him to eat. When it's on the floor (you may need to still have it in your hand at this next step), I discriminate between yes vs cookies.  

 

 

Then, try doing an around the clock game with a Zen Bowl.  Start with the dish behind them where it should be easy to look at you, and gradually work that dish out in front.  Instead of marking the dog to look at it before sending, send the dog only when they are looking at you for at least one full second.  Your "cookies" cue will reward the focus on you.  Don't transition back to telling the dog to mark/look at the dish until that eye contact is easy!  

Here Marina demonstrates working on this skill. You can see her trainer does one "test" rep of cuing her to mark/look at the bowl towards the end, but the next rep she makes sure to reinforce Marina directly for the eye contact.

 

 

Some dogs will have a harder time transitioning from handler focus to object focus.  For these dogs, stay close to your Zen Bowl and after giving your dog a cookie from your body for eye contact, go back into the encouragement position you used in the very first step. This may mean crouching into a track start, looking forward at the object yourself, and possibly putting a hand on your dog's chest to raise excitement levels!

 

Duration!!  

Remember to build up your dog looking forward for at least 2-3 seconds!!!  Keep your hand still and make sure the dog is looking forward when you release them.

Here Wren is working on more duration again!  A few times I have to remark her when she looks up too early.  And at the end I find she's not quite looking forward at the target but off to the side. I don't want to practice releasing her too much with this off look.  Fortunately I figure out she's looking at her dinner bowl and I change the angle I'm working on!

 

 

Step 4: Fading Duration of the Hand Cue  

The goal of both the verbal cue to look and the hand signal is to give the dog a cue to look forward in a straight line for something to do.  Like all other cues, you don't want to have to hold the cue constantly for the dog to do the behavior.  It should be a quick action and then your hand should return to your side while the dog continues to do the behavior of looking forward. 

Your hand being removed might be difficult for your dog to keep focus without looking back at you.  Having a strong verbal cue can help with this! Don't hesitate to mark and re-mark.  As your dog gets used to doing 2-3 marks before each send the desire to look back at you in between should decrease.  

You can also try making your hand signal smaller so it's easier to get rid of.  Instead of bending over completely, try a tiny bend!  Or instead of pausing as you mark, lower your hand and then smoothly continue moving it down to your side.

 

Here with Ginny I'm working on having my hand signal be in continuous motion so there is no pause of it down before it slowly starts moving back to my side. This makes it less obvious that I'm removing it. I'm able to get in several good reps without her looking back at me and only have to re-mark her once in this session!

 

 

Here Lina does a great job of responding to Mom's continuous signal!  (Note she occasionally has to re-mark her and that's due to not always having food out there as she works towards a later skill of sending to targets instead of food!)

 

 

Here Wren is starting to get my hand slowly being removed. I'm trying not to bend over too much as I give my mark and slowly slide it back.

 

 

And here Grace is struggling a bit with her owner in being distracted by the hand motion.  While Grace does look back up. Mom is trying hard to send her as soon as she's looking forward, even if she isn't quite taking her hand away yet!

 

 

Overview

1. Reward your dog for looking at a dish with food in it!  Release them with a special cue such as "cookies." Do NOT click or say "yes" as that will mean they get a reward from your hand!!

2. Add in a hand signal if you haven't already been using one.  Typically this is your left hand lowered down to right at their head level.  You may also wish to add a verbal "look" type cue right before your hand moves if you want!

3. Get focus on you!!  You may need to warm up with the dish in your hand and getting eye contact!  And/or practice pivoting away from the dish and then sending the dog only when they are looking at you before going back to the mark!

4. After the dog is looking at you, give the cue to mark the dish, then release to the dish on your "cookies" cue.

5. Continue to work on duration.  Build at least 2-3 seconds of your dog looking forward with your lowered hand before you release them.

6. Remove your hand.  Dog should be looking at you - you give the mark signal - remove your hand - (dog is looking forward still) - release to the dish! Try a continuous motion signal so there isn't any pause with your hand out as your hand slowly slides back to your side.

 

 

 

FLY AWAY - Going Out & Around A Cone (obstacle)

Exercise:  On cue, dog goes out and away from handler and circles the obstacle and returns to the handler.  This exercise is not only the beginning stages of teaching your dog it's OK to work away from you, its also a great, fun way to relieve training pressures and insert some energy or fun games into your training session.  We usually work so hard on keeping our dogs focused on, and connected with us, that for some dogs being sent "away" can be quite daunting.  If you have already played with some target training either close up or distance the fly should be a fairly easy transition for your dog. 

So what does this Fly actually do for you? 

1)  In traditional obedience, it can be applicable to the Go-out send for the Directed Jumping or the Directed Retrieve (3 gloves).  Within the more advanced levels of TEAM, for instance, Level 5, you can substitute 3 cones or poles to act as a replacement for the 3 gloves while you work through the direction & energy of the send away.  When you have achieved the desired direction and energy, adding the gloves as part of the retrieve portion becomes a fairly easy introduction.

2)  Great way to introduce jump stanchions

3)  Option for encouraging straight jump & distance on the broad jump

4)  Send a fly to relieve pressure or inject energy in an exercise (i.e. heeling, fly, re-connect heeling)

5)  Re-setting your dog for another attempt at an exercise

6)  Allows you to work on components of an exercise without worrying about other criteria of that exercise.

My own preference for equipment in this exercise is a large traffic cone, mainly because they are heavier & taller so less likely to be knocked over by my dog's body or feet, but any upright object will work.  You can use a jump stanchion, a garbage can, post in the ground, stool or one of those mesh collapsible laundry buckets or leaf collection buckets.  Heck, you could even use a tree or telephone pole but the problem is moving it to a new location.

I like to teach the dogs to go both directions - variety/versatility is fun after all and is a big help if you're thinking about agility or other sports that require multi-directional sends.  This also keeps the dog flexible and balanced.  All dogs have a dominant directional preference that they find easier to complete.  Teaching them to go both ways helps to keep them balanced.  I will also typically use both arms to indicate direction.  The cue you use is your choice - I have opted for a verbal FLY with using an extended arm on the side I'd like the dog to approach the obstacle from.  For instance, left arm sends the dog (as they're facing the cone) to the right (clockwise) around the cone and my right arm would send the dog to their left (counter clockwise) around the cone.  If I want to get really fancy, I can also the add direction my torso/arm are pointing i.e. dog on my right, right arm and torso point in the direction for the dog to go clockwise around.

Starting your FLY: Your options, of course, are to shape, which can be fun, lure or bits of both shaping and luring.   Luring requires that you initially keep your hand lower (where your dog naturally placed their head just standing) as you take the dog around the cone.  Holding your hand higher means there's less connection to the obstacle and you may find the dog tripping over the cone more than going around it because they're totally focused on just the hand/reward and where it's going.  If I'm luring the dog who is on my left side already, I'll use my right hand to nose lure them around clockwise and vice versa going counter clockwise.  Remember you'll want an obstacle that you can reach around easily as you move the dog with the lure.  Once they've got the idea you can switch it up to other types of obstacles.

Here I'm doing just doing some armchair training with Piper, clicking for any interaction with the Cone in any manner.  This helps to create value in the cone.  Notice how I can create direction by where I throw or give the treat.  I can get variety in approach for later on.  Even in this video, she is developing a directional approach preference.

In this video, I played armchair training again to create value for the cone.

 

This video shows the first session of Piper learning to leave me to go around the cone. Her shaping prepped her for going around. At one point you'll see me not Click because I was wanting an additional step rather than constantly clicking at the same point.  This caused a bit of confusion for Piper.

Here I begin adding the verbal cue & hand signal but Piper was distracted & sirens happened.  But you can see how I turned her before sending and also waited for her to look at me before sending her. 

An option to create even more value for the cone while also creating variety is to train multiple circles around the cone. This can be achieved either by shaping (changing where you mark/reward) as well as taking advantage of your reward placement; both to encourage an additional circle or set-up to perform the next send around.  For multiple circles:  if your dog is going clockwise as he starts to wrap the cone mark and then use the lure in your left hand and draw the dog around and to the 9 o'clock position before you reward. This puts your dog in the position to continue the next wrap where you can mark at the 3 o'clock position and then place the lure with your left hand to draw the dog again to the  9 o'clock position.

Get ready for next send around:  as the dog goes around cone mark and as he returns to you, draw the dog past you and turn them so they are again facing the cone and release the reward.  This can be done if you're sending either clockwise or counterclockwise.  It's an easy way to achieve set-ups for alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise one after the other.

****    

Adding distance and Return energy
So far we've been working fairly close to the cone but eventually, we want to create a nice distance send as well as a quick return to the handler.  Return to the handler is good to start from the beginning because there can be instances when working the fly, that your dog will get stuck on staying by the obstacle when you mark waiting for the reward to come to them.  Only when your dog has grasped the idea that his job is to go out and around the cone will we add greater distance or introduce handler movement to create energy.  If we introduce handler movement too soon, such as a chase game, we run the risk of the dog backing out of the send around the cone to chase you instead.  

Creating Distance:  You will gradually take small half steps back from where you send the dog to the cone. I stress small half type steps, not giant steps backwards. 

1) Set the dog up facing the cone and send. 

2) As the dog commits to circle the cone, mark and step back one step, as the dog is coming towards you for the reward.

3)  Repeat 2-3 times at this distance, then move again, gradually increasing the distance away from the cone.  For TEAM Level 1 that distance is minimum of 5 ft.  I like to always opt for a bit more than I really need as you'll eventually require more than the 5ft distance for other competition or team exercises.

*** In the video above, I discretely add distance by taking a step backwards either as Tag's back is facing me or as I throw the treat past myself. 

Injecting return energy:  Here we're going to use handler movement to create energy on the return after circle to handler.  Initially it is best to stand still as you send your dog. The reason - we don't want the dog to cue off of and be reliant on motion from you. So don't look like you're sending and then about to race off.

1) Send the dog to circle the cone

2) Wait until the dog is committed to circling the cone, mark it

3) Take off running away from your dog by either:
            - turning and running straight away from the cone
            - turning to left or right (depending on direction of send) and run away

NOTE:  if you're sending the dog to go clockwise from the left, you would take off running after they have committed to the left, this encourages a tight wrap
Here I'm adding a bit of movement to encourage faster return from Piper

Using the cone to encourage the dog to stride out after a jump & at the same time encourage a tight return.


Here I use the cone for a bar jump send; stride out and tight return.

Motion added by the handler injects fun and capitalizes on the chase instinct our dogs have.  The direction you run can sharpen your turns, keeping them tight to the cone, which helps keep the dog from going wide as they make any type of turn.  So change up which direction you get your dog to chase you - variety keeps them focused.

Keep in mind that many of the regular obedience exercises which incorporate a send, require you to be still on the send.  So if you've added a forward step motion to your send, you will eventually want to also teach the dog to be sent away WITHOUT your forward movement.  Using the chase after send helps in this area.  Again change it up - keep the dog guessing as to what you're going to do next. 

Keep building the distance you are able to send your dog, either with handler motion as you send (think heeling then fly then back to heeling or jump then back to the handler)  or handler being stationary as you send.

OTHER SPORTS NOTES:   If you're competing in other dogs sports that require directional cues keep in mind the exercises that may be similar in nature.   You'll find it advantageous to keep your hand cues consistent between sports not only for precision but because it can be less frustrating for your dog.  Agility is one sport that comes to mind that has a tonne of directional cues that rely on both body turns & directional arms.  Considering this from the start helps you clean up your cues for both sports.  

LEFT & RIGHT FINISHES (otherwise known as Around or Swing Finishes)
Depending upon where you hail from there may be more than these two "official" finishes; usually, a come to heel from the front going either left or right. However, I'm going to be dealing with two that are the most common. 

Firstly we have the left finish - often referred to as the Swing or Get Back; this has the dog going to the left of the handler swinging their rear to end up in heel position.  The right finish, often called an Around Finish, has the dog going clockwise around the handler to end up in heel on the left.  In most sports, the final heel position ends with the dog in a sitting position. 

(Note: TEAM Titles does allow the handler to choose a default stand if it is noted on the video test submission and the dog remains consistent in either stand or sit within the exercise).   

Right Finish:  Around (dog goes around clockwise and into left heel position) 
You can start with the dog in any position in front of you but standing position does make it easier to entice the dog to move and is the position I begin with. Being correctly or squarely in front doesn't matter at this point of the learning phase. 

You have the option of using a lure or if your dog has a target to hand, using the hand. With a cookie in your right hand, put it to the dog's nose like a magnet and draw your right hand (with dog) backwards behind your back and encourage the dog to follow it, as the travels around behind you, transfer the cookie over to your left hand and finish bringing the dog around and up to heel.  Remember to initially hold your right hand behind your back until after you have caught the dog with the left-hand cookie. If you drop your right hand too soon, your dog may follow it back and not continue around your body.  As the dog starts to understand that there will be that transfer cookie, you can start to drop your right hand back beside your body.

Here's PiPER's 1st session of go around.  Notice that my hands are high on the treat transfer, this helps to keep Piper's head up high as she goes around. Nothing formal yet.
">

Here you'll see Piper getting more comfortable going around and I'm starting to use my right hand as more of a signal.

As the dog progresses, use your right hand only to signal the finish and keep the cookie in your left hand.  You can still bring your left hand behind your back as needed to help the dog come up to heel. However, you will want to release the treat in heel position.

The biggest problem with this finish is the dog's tendency to keep rotating and end up with their butt too far out and angled.  Another problem is a slow go around which occurs when the sit in heel portion of the finish is added too quickly.  The sit should be the last piece added. 

For the butt out you can use your pocket hand or reward hand to catch the dog's nose and stop them nice and close to your body and rotate the head ever so slightly to the left as they come parallel either in a stand or sit.

When your dog is comfortable with the action of going around,  you can insert the use of a platform in heel position to help assist in teaching the dog the concept of sitting/standing straight after going around behind you.  Then gradually reduce the use of the platform/target. 

This is the finished picture on Tag's Around Finish. Notice that I feed his head straight. If I were to feed at an angle closer to the center of my body, it would draw his front end forward to the right and cause his rear to swing out.

Left Finish: Swing, Set-up or Get In
This is where our work on pivot in heel carries over, and flows naturally into a left finish.  If you have been doing the find heel exercises with the pivot pot then you've already been working on this skill and it won't take much to perfect! In the pivot the dog more or less, plants their front feet in heel and swings their rear around straight and then sits.  I like the swing, especially if you have a "social" dog who likes to see or get distracted by what's going on around them i.e. that child standing there with the ice cream at nose level.  The reason it works so nicely is that the head doesn't disappear very far past your body to gawk, just the dog's body swivels.

This is TAG's swing finish a couple of years ago, you can see he moves quite easily into heel and is quite precise. Again I feed with head straight out.

TAG doing his version of the swing now.  He has a bit of difficulty due to a muscle issue with his right rear leg that doesn't allow him to be as precise in his final placement but that's okay.
">

This is OLLIE doing his version of a swing or get-in from the side. He was very quick so I've done it in slo-mo so you could see. Yes, he's a bit over-rotated but that's okay and due to his enthusiasm with the get-in game.

Another alternative is the left "C or U" finish. This can be done either using a target hand or a lure.  To start you're going to do what I call the T' Da move or the "this way please".  Start with feet together, the dog standing in front.  Place lure magnet on the dog's nose, step back with your left leg and turn so your body basically now opens sideways to the left.  Your left hand with dog attached will swing out in a slight arch (C) AND back far enough that your dog will have enough room to fully turn and be on a relatively straight course when coming back up into heel.  Once the dog has begun to turn, you step forward with your left foot so your feet are together as you draw the dog up into heel.  NO SITS required at this time. This is just about teaching position for the dog.  Once you get position and speed, the sit is easily put into place.

Depending on your dog you may find it advantageous to break this skill down even further into two pieces:  
1) just getting the dog to move past you  AND  2) then adding the turn around to come back into heel.  The treat is given at the farthest point of 1) and then when you add the turnaround the treat is then given at 2) when their head is in heel.

While you are initially teaching the "C" or "U" turn, you continue stepping back with your left leg or you may find your dog not going far enough back.  Treating at the back turn can also help to drive the dog back farther so they have enough room to turn.  Once your dog is nicely doing your left finish you can then delete the stepping back with your left leg and your cue will just be your left hand.

Piper learning the U Finish - My preference will be for her to use more of a pivot swing as that keeps her head from wandering. This would be where she basically plants her front feet as she pivots into heel facing forward.



Breaking down the C or U finish into two pieces

Go Through Finish - Alternative (think twice about this one) 
I don't normally use this as a regular finish but for those who would like to know how to do it or start, I'm happy to accommodate.  The reason, I personally don't teach the Go Thru Finish, is that I use going thru my legs mainly for working straight fronts and I also have a "Place" position of dog facing front from the rear through my legs that I use for energy pullbacks & sends.  I'll also use the forward thru as a tight turn and come up to heel. The Go Thru Finish is definitely a fun exercise to play with to develop a tight heel or energize your dog between exercises as it's basically a just leg weave with a tight close sit.  BUT if your dog is inclined to sit butt out, it can exacerbate this so you may initially have to use your reward to strategically feed the dog so the butt is corrected inwards.

  
If you decide to tackle this finish from the front remember that some dogs will initially be reluctant or even quite nervous about going through your legs.  It's best to start with your legs as wide as possible, with dog immediately in front or behind you, you can either lure or just toss a cookie back and forth through your legs.  If tossing the cookie don't throw it too far or your dog may initially just deek around your legs.  In the "go thru legs" learning stage there is no asking the dog to come to heel, it's just straight back and forth thru your legs from up close and then farther away.

Once the dog is comfortable going through your legs, begin to strategically drop or toss the treat so it lands more to your rear left side.  As you do this drop your left hand down and slightly back behind your left leg.  The straighter you can drop your hand down the easier it can be to catch your dog's attention and lure the dog tight to heel by following the arm up into heel position.  You can also add your pivot pot to heel position as an additional help cue to the dog.

Here are some video examples of Piper and Tag coming into "PLACE".  Plus a couple of Thru & Come To Left Heel.  I have to be careful with TAG because as you can see I'm not tall enough for him to fit comfortably thru my legs and I can get tossed over easily. Piper is learning to sit straight on left.

TAG

Piper - As you can see Piper loves her Place cue and is much smaller than Tag so fits nicely between my legs.