BH345: On Guard – Working Through Resource Guarding Issues
Course Details
Although resource guarding of food objects is a normal behavior in dogs, it can escalate to an abnormal state, which is of great concern to members of the household, both human and other pets. It can also manifest with other items, places, and people. In my experience, this often comes from a state of anxiety. In this class, you will learn to identify any subtle signs of guarding, to identify your dogs’ thresholds and how it can change from moment to moment, and how to manage and modify the behavior to reduce risk and injury.
We will employ the process of desensitization and counter conditioning, as well as teach reinforcement strategies to build alternative behaviors and how to interrupt a guarding episode before it escalates. The use of negative reinforcement may also be a valuable tool in this course. Each student will be given a customized approach based on the syllabus and what falls under the realm of behavior modification for the problem.
Teaching Approach
Working with behavior cases requires a customized approach for each dog. Although there are certainly 'core' skills and concepts that are required to work with resource guarding issues, each Gold spot will get individual feedback of their videos including appropriate management, training and behavior modification work. There are many variables that contribute to the success of all training and behavior modification including the dog in question, the environment, as well as who (dog and human) that is in that environment. Resource guarding is no different.
Karen Deeds, is a Certified Dog Behavior Consultant through the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC). She is the co-owner of Canine Connection in Ft. Worth, TX with her husband, Bob Deeds, a retired Federal K9 Handler on Texas Task Force I....(Click here for full bio and to view Karen's upcoming courses)
Some of you may remember the old ‘shaker can’ from years ago where it was recommended to shake the can full of rocks or pennies as an attempt to scare the dog enough that it would stop doing whatever it was doing that you didn’t like. Of course, that had the potential for major fallout since it was utilizing positive punishment. Thankfully we have figured out a much better way to interrupt our dog and change the emotion from fear or anger (using the words from Denise Fenzi’s recent webinar on training in the ‘wild’) to a more positive one.
One of the biggest concerns that I hear about the use of any type of reinforcement in this manner is that we will inadvertently be reinforcing the problem behavior. But that isn’t the way conditioning works! During this process we are changing the dogs’ emotions first and foremost, then with this process, we are also replacing the inappropriate behavior with a good, alternative one!
A ‘positive interrupter’ can be used to interrupt any type of behavior that might escalate into over arousal or conflict. This could be conflict between one dog and other dogs, cats, or over a resource. It can also be used to get a dog to come away from a dangerous situation or perhaps to even get them to drop something and come to you or go somewhere.
As mentioned before, by doing this, the word becomes a cue to eat a treat which therefore changes the dogs emotional state to a more positive one. You are NOT rewarding the negative behavior! You are interrupting and simply stopping its escalation and getting the dog out of one situation that is potentially negative or dangerous and into a happier state.
Teaching the positive interrupter starts with simple classical conditioning. You will start at the source of the treat or the location where you want your dog to go. Many people already have a ‘cookie jar’ or drawer or cabinet that already has an association with the dispensing of a treat. If you do, you can simply do a ‘cue transfer’ where the new word “Cookies” (you can use whatever word you want) means you are going to open the jar, drawer, or cabinet to get the treat and deliver it. You will gradually move away from the source of the treats and say the word, run to the jar/drawer/cabinet and open it and deliver the treat. If you don’t already have a sound that the dog recognizes, you can easily create one by saying the word, and delivering the treat. Do it in a way that is exciting for the dog. Maybe some clapping or with a high-pitched voice. You might be able to use a cue to go to their crate, or outside, or to their ‘place’ or even to squeak a toy which means to come to you to get it. Of course, this is only an option if your dog does not guard the toy, or space.
Here is a video compilation of me teaching it with food. Much like this video, you will want to start teaching it AND using it when you don’t really need it and there isn’t anything ‘bad’ going on that you really must interrupt.
Eventually the act of excitedly running to the source becomes part of the reinforcer.
This is a video of me working with a dog to teach the concept of going to the refrigerator to get ‘cheese’. It is narrated and you can see the dog is extremely focused on looking for her ball which is one of the things she guarded the most. It was almost a failure when she tried to jump up to get one of the toys high up.
If using the food/location interrupter and you have multiple dogs, it will be important to implement the ‘name modifier’ cue that we learned earlier along with the RPI cue. For example, “Cookies! – run to location – Name modifier cue – feed.” For now, work with one dog at a time, and ensure that they are going to a predictable location every time. For example, Dog A on the right, Dog B on the left!
A sampling of what prior students have said about this course ...
I’m very glad I took this class. My situation was that my dog is a kleptomaniac and then guards the items he has stolen against my husband and I. Karen really individualized her suggestions to each team. She often posted additional videos in a gold thread to help explain what she suggested in her feedback. I asked a lot of questions and she always answered them well. She gave great feedback on my videos and suggestions for improving my approach with my dog. We made good progress on the resource guarding. We still have a long way to go but now we have some tools I know will help. I finished the course feeling optimistic about continuing this work on my own. Thank you Karen.
Instructor was very clear and answered all of my questions in a really thoughtful way. I'd definitely look for another course with her in the future!
Watching you practice the skills with different dogs was so informative. I am certain that I will be revisiting the videos often. Thanks for a great course!
I thought Karen did a really great job trying to make the lectures work for everyone's situation. Most situations were quite different and there was a lot to track but she did it seamlessly, even checking the discussion sometimes more than once a day. I learned a lot and feel in a good spot to continue to work with my dog and cats. She also taught skills that I can apply to other locations. This is my first gold class, and I'm really pleased.
Karen provides just the right balance of general and specific assignments to gold students. She does a great job explaining how different assignments work and provides numerous videos demonstrating a process. I've been amazed at her other classes as well and am a better pet parent and trainer from what she teaches. I look forward to taking many more classes with her.
You definitely get a lot for your buck with Karen Deeds. I really appreciate all that she brought to this course. I still need to digest most of it.
I love getting so much information. Thanks much. I will be able to use it now and in the future!
Registration
Next session starts: December 1, 2025Registration starts: November 22, 2025Registration ends: December 15, 2025