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NW290: Just Plain Killer Nosework Skills and Setups

 

Course Details

You aren’t a beginner anymore. Your dog searches with confidence and handles multiple hides, and now you’re running into the puzzles that show up as you move up: odor blowing onto the wrong object, hides right next to each other, hides tucked deep where your dog has to push in to reach them. What takes a team from GOOD to GREAT?

Skills! NW290 is a skills class. Each week we take one skill that sets upper-level teams apart and build it step by step with simple, repeatable setups. Don’t underestimate them… the magic is in their simplicity! Along the way we’ll work on what sits under every one of those skills: arousal and fluency, driving all the way to source, marker timing, and learning to trust your dog’s “Sniff and Dismiss.”

In this class you will learn how to:

  • Test and build fluency by raising and lowering your dog’s arousal (new tools for box smashers AND for lower-drive dogs!)
  • Teach your dog to expect another hide close by, and to leave found hides behind with “Find Another”
  • Build air scenting so your dog drives through blowing odor to source instead of alerting at the first whiff
  • Use fans, walls, corners and even the sun to create blowing odor setups at home and away
  • Build confidence in tight spaces with Deep Accessible hides, so “Inaccessible” hides stop being a problem
  • Time your marker to your dog’s understanding at source, not the final response, so you don’t build fringing
  • Help your dog clear unproductive areas and solve hides around obstacles
  • Introduce suspended hides carefully, without hurting your dog’s sourcing

These skills apply no matter which organization or country you trial in.

NW290

Teaching Approach:

Each week starts with an intro lecture, followed by 3 to 4 lectures that combine theory with LOTS of video examples of my dogs working the setups. There are more setups than you’ll have time to do, so use them as inspiration and adapt them to your dog and your training spaces. Work through each week’s lectures in order. This class is about the journey, not mastery. Train the dog in front of you today, and don’t compare your progress to anyone else’s.

This class will have a Teacher's Assistant (TA) available in the Facebook study group to help the bronze and silver students! Directions for joining that Facebook group will be in the classroom after you register.

Stacy BarnettInstructor: Stacy Barnett

Stacy Barnett is both a sport and working dog handler. She is a top nosework competitor and trainer, and the first handler to put multiple Summit titles (16 so far) on 3 dogs (Judd SMTx3, Brava SMTx7, Powder SMTx6) in the National Association of Canine Scent Work (NACSW)... (Click here for full bio and to view Stacy's upcoming courses)

Syllabus

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Week 1: Arousal Layering to Build Fluency in Containers

  • What arousal, drive and fluency really mean, and how they relate (the Yerkes-Dodson law)
  • Self-patterning: using a U-shaped container pattern to settle the dog and build rhythm
  • Raising and lowering arousal with toys and food to proof container fluency
  • When to raise criteria and when to back off
  • Adding distraction, plus a lid progression for box smashers

Week 2: Converging Odor using Patterning Drills

  • Patterning close hides on familiar objects at home (folding chairs are perfect!)
  • Pairs of hides on like objects away from home, then out in the environment
  • Multiple pairs of hides, and a counter-rotation handling move so you don’t miss converged hides
  • Horizontally layered hides and three-hide converging problems
  • Supplemental lecture: Find Another. Why I rarely refeed, the Wall Progression exercise, and the “Yay” marker

Week 3: Blowing Odor

  • The presence of odor does not mean the presence of source
  • Building air scenting with no visual target: approaching from downwind or across the scent cone
  • Fan drills: odor glancing off walls, blowing onto objects, running down a line of furniture, wrapping around corners
  • Temperature-driven setups: ground hides that read as elevated, lofting, and large-area searches

Week 4: Deep Hides

  • Deep Accessible vs. Deep Inaccessible, and how body and environmental pressure affect your dog
  • Marker timing: the four steps from Change of Behavior to alert, and why I mark at Step 3
  • An incremental approach to tight spaces, starting with mazes and adding pressure slowly
  • Example setups: long tight spaces, under the bed, deep in a closet, under a table, bleachers and more

Week 5: Navigating the Environment with Air Scenting and Spatial Processing

  • Clearing unproductive areas to a single hide, indoors and out
  • Adding obstacles so your dog has to solve how to reach the hide
  • Multiple hides for speed and efficiency, then multiple problem-solving and layered hides

Week 6: Suspended Hides

  • Why suspended hides can hurt your dog’s skills (and why seminar setups often go wrong)
  • Marking when your dog KNOWS where the hide is, not just when they look “up”
  • A three-step progression: accessible above objects, accessible with nothing underneath, then inaccessible
  • Keeping suspended hides to about 10% of your training

Sample Lecture

More

Week 1: Proofing Container Fluency by Adding Arousal to a Simple Setup

Now that you have gotten your dog to settle into Containers a little, we will add and remove arousal in order to "proof" our container fluency.  With some dogs, this will be super easy...  and with some, it will be exceptionally difficult.  What you want to avoid at all costs is tipping the arousal SO much that your dog loses the ability to think clearly.  If this happens, simply calmly end the session and try again a little later when your dog is back to being relaxed.

If you have a box smashing problem, you might very well have an arousal management problem.  By teaching your dog to work at various states of arousal, your dog's behaviors will become more resilient and your box smashing fixes will hold out longer!  Remember that these concepts WILL work in non-container searches, however containers is an excellent "gateway" to using these concepts initially.

In this lecture, we will talk about a couple of key concepts...

  1. How to increase arousal in both food and toy motivated dogs
  2. Basic container setup
  3. Raising criteria and when to reduce criteria

How to increase arousal in both food and toy motivated dogs

Raising arousal is actually much easier with toys than food.  In fact, it's so easy to raise arousal that using toy rewards in a multiple hide search is very challenging.  It's so easy to use a toy reward and have the dog's arousal go very quickly over the tipping point.

Here's a video of an After Party that I did with Powder at the end of a search.  This toy play was intended to reinforce the entire session.  She was definitely VERY stimulated and I think had there have been a second hide, she would have had challenges in keeping focus.

If you want to keep your arousal more stable (and therefore continue to have usable drive), you will want to tone down your play quite a bit.  You can do this either by lowering your energy and/or by reducing the duration of your play.

In this next example, you can see that I've used a toy reward with Powder on a Container search.  Because I am working on her behavior at source (I am working on a nose freeze on the container in order to address box smashing), I am using a clicker in this situation.  I don't typically use a clicker in nosework, however this is a specific example of when it is appropriate.  The clicker releases the behavior and I present her with a ball on a rope.  In this example, I play with a lower energy level than the previous example because I want to have usable drive after her reward session.  Notice that I go still when the reward phase is over.  This is her cue to release the toy.  Although it is difficult to hear on the video, I often use a cue, "Trade", to indicate to Powder that she will receive a food reward for outing the tug.  Adding this step also has an arousal reducing quality as food tends to lower arousal when it's given in a low excitement manner.

You can also raise arousal by PLAYING with food.  If you simply hand food over, that lowers arousal.  Playing with food will raise arousal to a point.  You won't get the extreme lift of arousal that you will get with toys but you WILL get an increase in arousal.

Playing with food can be done in a number of different ways.

This is a video that I did a long time ago in Denise's play class, I played with food with Judd by hiding food on and around me:

You can also have the dog catch cookies or use "wiggle fingers" as demonstrated here with Joey:

Basic Container Setup

In this exercise, it can be really helpful to use REALLY basic containers.  Now I'm totally confident that all of you have the skills to work more complicated containers.  However, with this exercise, the more basic the better.

If you have a box smashing problem, you might find that getting 3 gallon Rubbermaid type (flexible plastic) containers and cutting a hole in the top for the nose might be your best bet!  They tend to be very durable.  Cardboard smashing is self reinforcing so it's best to not provide that sort of outlet to your dog.  You MIGHT want to try the Rubbermaids regardless if you have a box smashing problem.  By increasing your dog's arousal, your non-smashing dog might get a wee bit excited!  It's best to not start showing your dog how fun smashing can be!  If your more mild mannered container dog all of a sudden smashes with increased arousal, then it's likely that you don't have Fluency.

This is what I use.  I cut a hole in the top the size of my dog's nose:

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In this clip I am using only 6 containers.  You can see how I raise Powder's arousal at the boxes.  I do ask her to refind boxes but I only do it because she does not seem to work off of memory.  You want to avoid "targeting" if you can.  This basically means avoiding having the dog alert on a container without sniffing it out.

Raising Criteria and when to reduce criteria

Raising criteria is an art...  in general, you never want to stagnate at any criteria level.  So if you find yourself working the same challenge level, whether it be duration at source, consistent distraction level, etc for too long, you will want to try a little more.

When you raise criteria, the most important thing to start aware of your dog's success.  A good rule of thumb is to drop criteria if you see your dog take longer or struggle more with increased criteria.  If in this case, your dog all of a sudden starts to smash boxes then you have raised your criteria either too much or too quickly.

In this video, you can see that I've raised Powder's arousal too quickly...  upon noticing this, I ask for lower duration, lower energy in her reward delivery, and lower energy on the start line.

Prerequisites & Supplies

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Teams should be good at searching for multiple hides. There are no titling requirements, but this is a fairly advanced class, and your dog should be able to work confidently and independently. Dogs working confidently at the NW2 level (or the equivalent) or above will do best. If your dog is greener, the suspended hides material may be too advanced. You can skip Week 6 and keep working on earlier weeks.

You will need:

  • Containers for Week 1. If your dog smashes boxes, I recommend 3-gallon Rubbermaid-type storage containers with a nose hole cut in the lid. Cardboard boxes work if your dog isn’t a box smasher.
  • A household fan for Week 3 blowing odor drills
  • Twine and a hide that can be hung for Week 6. My favorite hanging hide tubes are here (or use whatever you can come up with): https://k9nwsource.com/shop/hang-hide-tubes-in-5-colors-with-large-clips/

Testimonials & Reviews

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A sampling of what prior students have said about this course ...

 

 

Registration

Next session starts: December 1, 2026
Registration starts: November 22, 2026
Registration ends: December 15, 2026

Registration opens at 12:00noon Pacific Time.

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Tuition $ 260.00 $ 130.00 $ 65.00
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