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Dog Behavior

  • June 2025 (Current)
  • August 2025
  • October 2025
  • See Also
  • All Disciplines

 

Course Details

For true training geeks, who want to obsess over the details of the perfect fold-back down, square tucked sits, fronts and finishes and other precision based exercises.

We will uncover the physiology behind the actions, going much farther than just the final position. HOW does the dog achieve that perfect, square sit? What body parts do what and when? What needs to happen to bring my dog's performance closer to the ideal? And perhaps most importantly, HOW can we tighten down precision while keeping the dog in the game? 

Using the science of skill acquisition, we will put these basic, but integral, obedience behaviors under a microscope. Breaking the action down into specific muscle movements. What makes the perfect sit? What makes the perfect down? What tricks or behaviors can modify or access those muscle movements? We will discover that! 

We will work on solutions to common nagging problems, like "rabbit feet", rock back sits, floppy or creeping downs. And we will do it by dissecting the problem (yes, science!) and building back the desired behavior with the correct mechanics. Rather than sitting with the feet sticking out (rabbit feet), or sitting with feet out and then tucking them in, can we teach the dog to bring his feet under him straight as his sits in the first place? That will be our focus. 

With a solid understanding of the mechanics of these behaviors, we will break down the factors that add challenge when the behaviors are incorporated into exercises. Does your dog sit perfectly square on a platform, but it falls apart when he's retrieving a dumbbell? Does he drop cleanly from a standstill, but take several steps toward you during a drop on recall? We need a plan to split those additional challenges, while still keeping the rate of reinforcement high. Step-by-step, we will develop a plan to integrate these behaviors into our chains and exercises, with the goal of adding speed, arousal, and enthusiasm, while maintaining a high level of precision. 

Sneak peak of the sort of geekery you can expect to see:

Hannah BraniganInstructor: Hannah Branigan

Hannah Branigan (she/her) has been training dogs and teaching people for more than 10 years. She is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA) and a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner (KPA-CTP). Hannah is the owner of Wonderpups, LLC, and teaches workshops...(Click here for full bio and to view Hannah's upcoming courses)

 

Syllabus

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This course will be somewhat front-heavy with the material, with the majority of the reading/watching being in the first couple weeks. After that, we’ll be focusing on putting these concepts into practical application. (The following is subject to change as I can't ever leave well enough alone.)

Week 1:
Overview of exceptionally nerdy concepts
Review and explanation of training tools in ridiculous detail
Baseline assessments
Teaching building block behaviors

Week 2: 
Movement and physiology
Motor patterns and repatterning
Building on foundation behaviors
Isometric exercises

Week 3:
The Perfect Sit
Tucked Sit exercises

Week 4: 
The Perfect Down
Fold Back Down Exercises

Week 5: 
Increasing complexity and adding context
Two types of "Stand"
Exercises to build on tucked sit

Week 6: 
Deceleration
Working with Speed and Arousal
Integration and long term maintenance

 

Prerequisites & Supplies

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I consider this class to be "advanced", not because the exercises are so challenging or require a great deal of previous training... but because of the level of nuance. There are no strict prerequisites beyond a strong desire to uncover the physiological basis of what makes your dog move, and learn to apply that to build the most precise behaviors possible. 

It is assumed that all students taking this course have a solid understanding of clicker training concepts and strong clicker mechanics. Because of the nature of the movements we will be shaping, a high precision event marker (a click) will be required. 
The more advanced your observation skills and shaping skills, the farther and deeper into the concepts you will be able to go. 

We will be using mostly food for convenience, but will also be incorporating play as we progress. 

Skillbuilding 1 strongly recommended. Any of the shaping classes would also be a big help. 

Dog behaviors needed:

  • Nose target
  • Chin rest
  • Experience stepping up on to platforms of any kind


Equipment: 

All students will need access to a large "edge" of some sort. This could be a full body platform that is quite a bit longer than the dog (an agility pause table, for example), or simply a curb or the top step on your porch (which is what I use).

A stable full-body platform a bit wider than the dog when laying down. (length may be dog-length or shorter.)

You will also need a flattish 2-paw target that will not slip, about as wide as your dog's shoulders (So both front feet fit comfortably without squeezing), and that has some thickness. Looking for something like a mousepad, doormat, silicone trivet, etc. Not an elevated platform.

Masking tape

A partridge in a pear tree. 

Optional:
Depending on your dog, you may need/want post it notes, various bits of lumber or masonry, a pool noodle, or a glass of wine.

Sample Lecture

More

Week 1.5 1.5 Foundation Behaviors

We are going to start by teaching some fairly simple behaviors, but we need them in order to have a solid base of support on which to build… both literally and figuratively!

We are going to use target/very low platforms to communicate the concept of planting each set of feet. You really have lots of options for the physical target, but I do want it to have an edge or clear tactile difference from the floor, and I want it to be stable. So don’t try to use a carpet square on a carpeted floor, and anything inflatable is out. 

**With ALL of these behaviors a CLEAN behavior is more important than any kind of duration. So I would really rather your dog hop on to the target and instantly off than hop on and peddle his feet for several seconds. 

Because of that, for these exercises, you may either click and deliver the treat back at the starting position OR you may click and deliver one treat in position and then a second treat to reset, but you may *not* click and feed over and over in position. You might be able to get away with it, or you might accidentally build a lot of annoying artifacts into the behavior. So in this case, the risks outweigh the benefits. 

Stand with Front feet planted

Objective: Dog stands with both front feet planted and still on target or platform. 
 

For this exercise, it’s usually easiest to start with the dog behind the target, so that he steps up on it. I am completely flexible on whether you shape or lure this behavior. I do however want the dog to practice moving on and off of this target comfortably, so if you choose to lure,  make sure to watch carefully that the dog is 1. comfortable, and 2. not incorporating any extra paw movement. 

 

Stand with Back feet planted

Objective: Dog stands with rear feet planted and still on target or platform.
 
This one I prefer to have the dog step back onto the target/platform. We will be using this for backwards-leaning behaviors most, so starting it as a step back behavior works well. To set the dog up, start by luring the dog in front of the target, and then click and treat for stepping back onto it. 
 
Too easy? Overachiever? Try BOTH front and rear targets.  
 

Stop at the edge

Objective: Dog approaches edge of step or platform and stops with front feet at the edge.
 
This is the beginning of working with speed and momentum, which are serious complicating factors when we start to work on doing these behaviors out of motion. It also gives us a starting point to add in other movements and exercises with platforms later on, and working with any kind of “edge” makes the dog more aware of his body in space.
 
For this one, I’ll lure the dog right to the edge and click and treat as his paws line up. Then drop a treat back to reset and lure forward again. When the dog is stepping right up to the edge, you can play with pulling the lure farther and farther back to encourage him to lean into the edge but not step off of it. This is a sort of zen/reverse luring (not exactly, but kinda the same effect), because the dog needs to stick to the edge and not be pulled off. Click and treat for sticking, and then reset with a treat behind him. 

Review nose touch + chin rest, both to hand and target.

We will be using nose and chin targeting behaviors to access certain muscle movement down the road, so now is a good time to refresh your dog’s memory of those behaviors. Review with both a nose/chin to your hand and nose/chin to a target (like a coaster or similar flat target). We do want both nose and chin behaviors, because they each will activate different muscle sets. 

Testimonials & Reviews

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A SAMPLING OF WHAT PRIOR STUDENTS HAVE SAID ABOUT THIS COURSE...

Hannah's "Devil in the Details" class feels like it was tailor made for my dog. If you have been struggling to improve your dog's positions then this is the perfect class for you. I have noticed a tremendous improvement with my dog. Her sits and downs are so much straighter! Hannah is great about pointing out the small movements that can help your dog build muscle memory to achieve better motions and changes in positions. I am so glad she offered a class with this level of information for those of us who enjoy getting into the nitty gritty details!  


What better way to add clarity to your training than to pick the mind of Hannah Branigan, the queen of splitting tasks. Learn to see tiny significant muscle twitches on your dog you would never before have noticed! This class is such an excellent place to work on precision, as your dog learns spiffy new motor patterns and you learn to construct elegant, targeted training sessions. Learning from Hannah is an absolute treat. I cannot recommend this class enough! -Amelia L.


I waited almost a year for this class and it was worth every second. They joy you take in the material and in your interactions with your students is infectious. I'd follow down any rabbit hole! Only thing I'd change would be to add a part 2 at some point.


I get so much from your courses; Devil in the Details totally lived up to my expectations. Like all your courses I have taken so far, it was EXCELLENT. Thank you, Hannah!


Hannah, I have appreciated your rich lectures and sage feedback so much the last few weeks. I've taken quite a few in-person training classes, and often been quite anxious because of inattention or unclear feedback from the instructor. In contrast, every time I have posted in my thread for this class I have had absolute confidence that you will be gentle with me and lead me in the right direction. I can't tell you how much that feeling of safety has meant to me, and it has really furthered my learning. I really feel that I have learned not just some nifty exercises to work on with my dogs, but many helpful principles that will carry over into all the training that I do. Your descriptions of exercises and feedback to students have worn a rut of planning into my neocortex: time of day, location, handler position, props, criteria, treat delivery, reset. Getting into this pattern has made all of my training so much better!     


I would like to thank Hannah for offering such a unique class for those of us that really enjoy getting into the details of learning with our dogs. The exercises in this class have been a great addition to our daily training sessions!

 

Registration

There are no scheduled sessions for this class at this time. We update our schedule frequently, so please subscribe to our mailing list for notifications.

Available as a prerequisite purchase with lectures only for the April 2020 session.

OB620 Subscriptions


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